Saturday, May 27, 2006
Candle wax Removal from Upholstery, Wood or Carpet
Candle wax Removal from Upholstery, Wood or Carpet
To remove the wax from carpet or upholstery, you will need a plain brown paper bag and a steam iron. Paper grocery bags work well.
1. Cut open the brown paper bag so it lays flat.
2. Lay the brown paper bag on the affected carpet., with any printing away from the carpet.
3. Set the steam iron on a moderate setting and plug it in. Allow it to warm up.
4. Once warmed up, place the steam iron on top of the brown paper bag over the wax spot. Move the iron back and forth over the wax spot. The iron should never come in direct contact with the carpet, only the paper bag. As the wax warms up it will begin to absorb into the paper bag.
5. When a dark spot appears on the bag, move a dry area of the bag over the wax spot and continue to move the steam iron over the area.
6. When no further wax absorbs into the bag, you have removed the wax.
To remove candle wax from wood, apply a plastic bag filled with ice to the spot, until the wax is brittle enough to crumble off. If some candle wax remains, place an ink blotter on the area and apply a hot pressing iron to the top of the blotter.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
Candle wax Removal from Upholstery, Wood or Carpet
To remove the wax from carpet or upholstery, you will need a plain brown paper bag and a steam iron. Paper grocery bags work well.
1. Cut open the brown paper bag so it lays flat.
2. Lay the brown paper bag on the affected carpet., with any printing away from the carpet.
3. Set the steam iron on a moderate setting and plug it in. Allow it to warm up.
4. Once warmed up, place the steam iron on top of the brown paper bag over the wax spot. Move the iron back and forth over the wax spot. The iron should never come in direct contact with the carpet, only the paper bag. As the wax warms up it will begin to absorb into the paper bag.
5. When a dark spot appears on the bag, move a dry area of the bag over the wax spot and continue to move the steam iron over the area.
6. When no further wax absorbs into the bag, you have removed the wax.
To remove candle wax from wood, apply a plastic bag filled with ice to the spot, until the wax is brittle enough to crumble off. If some candle wax remains, place an ink blotter on the area and apply a hot pressing iron to the top of the blotter.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
Friday, May 26, 2006
An Entry Way Mat Reduces Dust
An Entry Way Mat Reduces Dust
Eighty percent of the dirt in your house walks in through the door on people's feet. The right kind of mats placed inside and out of all entrances will help cut down on cleaning time. Choose professional mats you see at the entrances of hospitals and supermarkets, which are available at a janitorial supply store. They're called walk-off mats because they give the dirt a chance to be walked off before it gets in. Walk-off mats are usually nylon or olefin with a rubber or vinyl back for inside the door, and rubber or vinyl-backed synthetic turf for outside on the step. They're available in a variety of colors. To do their job well, both the inside and outside mats should be four strides long. Vacuum mats regularly or shake them outside. Hose them down and scrub with an all-purpose cleaner as needed. You can also use upholstery shampoo or a wet/dry vacuum to clean them. It's important to always hang them until completely dry so that moisture isn't trapped under the vinyl backing.
If there are any unsealed concrete or mortar joints, they can bleed off bits of sand and concrete dust onto surrounding surfaces. You should also make sure your windows and doors seal tightly. Some utility companies will inspect your home for free to determine if you have any cracks where things could be going out or coming in.
Keep vacuum bags, filters, seals and gaskets in good repair to prevent fine dust from being blown back into the air as you vacuum.
Feather dusters typically don't do much but spread dirt around. If you are using a feather duster on some surfaces, consider looking at alternative cleaning options.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
An Entry Way Mat Reduces Dust
Eighty percent of the dirt in your house walks in through the door on people's feet. The right kind of mats placed inside and out of all entrances will help cut down on cleaning time. Choose professional mats you see at the entrances of hospitals and supermarkets, which are available at a janitorial supply store. They're called walk-off mats because they give the dirt a chance to be walked off before it gets in. Walk-off mats are usually nylon or olefin with a rubber or vinyl back for inside the door, and rubber or vinyl-backed synthetic turf for outside on the step. They're available in a variety of colors. To do their job well, both the inside and outside mats should be four strides long. Vacuum mats regularly or shake them outside. Hose them down and scrub with an all-purpose cleaner as needed. You can also use upholstery shampoo or a wet/dry vacuum to clean them. It's important to always hang them until completely dry so that moisture isn't trapped under the vinyl backing.
If there are any unsealed concrete or mortar joints, they can bleed off bits of sand and concrete dust onto surrounding surfaces. You should also make sure your windows and doors seal tightly. Some utility companies will inspect your home for free to determine if you have any cracks where things could be going out or coming in.
Keep vacuum bags, filters, seals and gaskets in good repair to prevent fine dust from being blown back into the air as you vacuum.
Feather dusters typically don't do much but spread dirt around. If you are using a feather duster on some surfaces, consider looking at alternative cleaning options.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
Thursday, May 25, 2006
Clean Base Boards with Cotton Wipers When Cleaning No-wax/Linoleum Floors
Clean Base Boards with Cotton Wipers When Cleaning No-wax/Linoleum Floors
Regular vacuuming or sweeping is the best way to maintain the finish. Then damp mop with plain water or add just a drop of liquid dish soap. If the floor has some tough spots to clean, use a white, nylon-backed scrub sponge. This will keep soil from wearing away the surface. However, if time and traffic eventually dull the glossy top layer, you may want to add a floor finish or wax to restore the shine. Choose any good commercial floor polish or try a self-polishing, metal-interlock floor finish available from a janitorial supply. Traffic areas may need finish applied more often than the rest of the floor. It's a good idea to keep doormats at all the entrances to your home, as they will catch much of the dirt that could eventually damage your floors.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
Clean Base Boards with Cotton Wipers When Cleaning No-wax/Linoleum Floors
Regular vacuuming or sweeping is the best way to maintain the finish. Then damp mop with plain water or add just a drop of liquid dish soap. If the floor has some tough spots to clean, use a white, nylon-backed scrub sponge. This will keep soil from wearing away the surface. However, if time and traffic eventually dull the glossy top layer, you may want to add a floor finish or wax to restore the shine. Choose any good commercial floor polish or try a self-polishing, metal-interlock floor finish available from a janitorial supply. Traffic areas may need finish applied more often than the rest of the floor. It's a good idea to keep doormats at all the entrances to your home, as they will catch much of the dirt that could eventually damage your floors.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
The Proper Cleaning Solution Applied with a Cotton Rag Will Clean Kitchen Cabinets
The Proper Cleaning Solution Applied with a Cotton Rag Will Clean Kitchen Cabinets
Most cabinets are factory manufactured and finished, and even wood cabinets have enough varnish or other protective coating so that you can use a cleaning solution. The oil slick that builds up on cabinets - especially around the handles - is a combination of kitchen grease, food smears, skin oil and hand lotion transferred to the cabinet. All-purpose cleaners aren't equal to the challenge.
If your cabinets are plastic laminate (formica or other plastic), metal, painted metal or glass, you can wash them all over with a strong alkaline cleaner, which is available at a janitorial supply store. Or use a heavy-duty cleaner from the supermarket. Mix according to directions and apply the solution with a sponge. Let it sit a minute or two, then take a white, nylon-backed sponge and scrub wherever necessary. Remove the grimy suds from the sponge by squeezing it into the sink or a slop bucket, never back into your cleaning solution. Then rinse with a damp cloth and wipe dry with a terry cleaning cloth to remove any last traces of scum and leave the cupboards clean and glowing.
Never use acids or powdered cleansers on cabinets. A good overall washing once a year should be enough. Keep a spray bottle of all-purpose cleaner handy the rest of the time and spot-clean after heavy kitchen use.
On wooden cabinets, take a gentler approach. To get off stubborn dirt, wash around all handles and any other grease zones first with hand dishwashing detergent. Then wash the entire cabinet, including the handle areas, with an oil soap solution. Just wipe lightly with the solution and buff dry immediately with a terry cleaning cloth. Always wipe dry with any grain or pattern. Seldom do you need to add any polish because the surface has its own sheen when clean. If your cabinets are dull from wear or age, spray furniture polish very lightly once a year or so to fill in the pores and bring back some life.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
The Proper Cleaning Solution Applied with a Cotton Rag Will Clean Kitchen Cabinets
Most cabinets are factory manufactured and finished, and even wood cabinets have enough varnish or other protective coating so that you can use a cleaning solution. The oil slick that builds up on cabinets - especially around the handles - is a combination of kitchen grease, food smears, skin oil and hand lotion transferred to the cabinet. All-purpose cleaners aren't equal to the challenge.
If your cabinets are plastic laminate (formica or other plastic), metal, painted metal or glass, you can wash them all over with a strong alkaline cleaner, which is available at a janitorial supply store. Or use a heavy-duty cleaner from the supermarket. Mix according to directions and apply the solution with a sponge. Let it sit a minute or two, then take a white, nylon-backed sponge and scrub wherever necessary. Remove the grimy suds from the sponge by squeezing it into the sink or a slop bucket, never back into your cleaning solution. Then rinse with a damp cloth and wipe dry with a terry cleaning cloth to remove any last traces of scum and leave the cupboards clean and glowing.
Never use acids or powdered cleansers on cabinets. A good overall washing once a year should be enough. Keep a spray bottle of all-purpose cleaner handy the rest of the time and spot-clean after heavy kitchen use.
On wooden cabinets, take a gentler approach. To get off stubborn dirt, wash around all handles and any other grease zones first with hand dishwashing detergent. Then wash the entire cabinet, including the handle areas, with an oil soap solution. Just wipe lightly with the solution and buff dry immediately with a terry cleaning cloth. Always wipe dry with any grain or pattern. Seldom do you need to add any polish because the surface has its own sheen when clean. If your cabinets are dull from wear or age, spray furniture polish very lightly once a year or so to fill in the pores and bring back some life.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
Wednesday, May 24, 2006
Soap, Water, Cotton Rags and Patience to Clean a Fireplace Hearth
Soap, Water, Cotton Rags and Patience to Clean a Fireplace Hearth
Cleaning the face of a fireplace is a project that demands patience. Fireplace stone and brick may be hard, but they're also porous. This means it has plenty of tiny holes for soil to accumulate in.
First, make sure the floor around the fireplace is well covered with dropcloths. Mix a solution of high-alkaline cleaner and one ounce of chlorine bleach per gallon of warm water. . Wet the surface of the fireplace well with the solution, but don't use so much that it runs. Dirty water running down the face may cause hard-to-remove streaks. Then scrub the solution in with a brush. You should see the suds getting dark and dirty as the buildup comes off. Rinse well. If the surface is shadowy, a light cleaning with a phosphoric acid cleaner may be enough to brighten it the rest of the way. Don't use any acid stronger than phosphoric as it will damage the brick or stone.
If the results still aren't satisfying, make a poultice of heavy-duty cleaner, bleach and diatomaceous earth and apply it to the areas needing attention. This should draw out any remaining residue. If necessary, repeat these steps until you get the result you want. The color of the brick or stone determines how aggressive your use of bleach can be. Heavy bleaching will whiten a dark surface and cause it to look out of place. You can use a stronger solution on white or light surfaces.
If you're not comfortable taking these kinds of chances with your facing, you may want to call in a professional chimney sweep.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
Soap, Water, Cotton Rags and Patience to Clean a Fireplace Hearth
Cleaning the face of a fireplace is a project that demands patience. Fireplace stone and brick may be hard, but they're also porous. This means it has plenty of tiny holes for soil to accumulate in.
First, make sure the floor around the fireplace is well covered with dropcloths. Mix a solution of high-alkaline cleaner and one ounce of chlorine bleach per gallon of warm water. . Wet the surface of the fireplace well with the solution, but don't use so much that it runs. Dirty water running down the face may cause hard-to-remove streaks. Then scrub the solution in with a brush. You should see the suds getting dark and dirty as the buildup comes off. Rinse well. If the surface is shadowy, a light cleaning with a phosphoric acid cleaner may be enough to brighten it the rest of the way. Don't use any acid stronger than phosphoric as it will damage the brick or stone.
If the results still aren't satisfying, make a poultice of heavy-duty cleaner, bleach and diatomaceous earth and apply it to the areas needing attention. This should draw out any remaining residue. If necessary, repeat these steps until you get the result you want. The color of the brick or stone determines how aggressive your use of bleach can be. Heavy bleaching will whiten a dark surface and cause it to look out of place. You can use a stronger solution on white or light surfaces.
If you're not comfortable taking these kinds of chances with your facing, you may want to call in a professional chimney sweep.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
Cotton Wipers Preferred by Heavy Equipment Mechanics
POLO COLORED T-SHIRTS WIPING RAGS
Cut up pieces of Colored T-Shirt Polo materials in various sizes. Recycled material packaged in 25 and 50 pound boxes.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
Tuesday, May 23, 2006
Toilet Bowl Ring Removal Without the Use of Rags
Toilet Bowl Ring Removal Without the Use of Rags
The earlier you attack this problem, the easier it will be to remove the ring. A thorough cleaning with a commercial acid-based bowl cleaner may do the trick. If the bowl cleaner doesn't work, try using a green, nylon-backed scrub sponge along with the acid. For an old ring, use a pumice stone. Wet the stone with the water in the bowl and rub it on the ringKeep the stone wet the entire time you're scrubbing. Pumice stones should only be used on vitreous china toilets - never on colored, enamel or plastic fixtures. Once you've gotten rid of a ring, weekly cleanings should keep it from coming back.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
Toilet Bowl Ring Removal Without the Use of Rags
The earlier you attack this problem, the easier it will be to remove the ring. A thorough cleaning with a commercial acid-based bowl cleaner may do the trick. If the bowl cleaner doesn't work, try using a green, nylon-backed scrub sponge along with the acid. For an old ring, use a pumice stone. Wet the stone with the water in the bowl and rub it on the ringKeep the stone wet the entire time you're scrubbing. Pumice stones should only be used on vitreous china toilets - never on colored, enamel or plastic fixtures. Once you've gotten rid of a ring, weekly cleanings should keep it from coming back.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
Cotton Wipers That Wipe Up Large Spills
Quality, low cost Terry Cloth Towels, wipes and rags, excellent quality, low prices. We supply industry & individuals.
Terry Hand Towels,
Surged Mixed
100% Cotton
Surged,
Terry hand towels, mixed color, general purpose wiper Please call for availability and pricing
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
Monday, May 22, 2006
Wood floors Can Be Cleaned With Cloth Wipers
Wood floors Can Be Cleaned With Cloth Wipers
Vacuum and dust mop regularly to prevent dirt from building up and damaging the surface. Any wood floor can be cleaned with a quarter-cup of apple cider vinegar mixed with a gallon of warm water. Wood floors are best cleaned on your hands and knees because you should only clean a small area at a time and then dry it and move on. Never get wood floors too wet or allow them to dry naturally. Finished wood floors often can be cleaned just with water. However, the finish will eventually wear off, and you'll either have to re-finish the floors or start waxing them.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
Wood floors Can Be Cleaned With Cloth Wipers
Vacuum and dust mop regularly to prevent dirt from building up and damaging the surface. Any wood floor can be cleaned with a quarter-cup of apple cider vinegar mixed with a gallon of warm water. Wood floors are best cleaned on your hands and knees because you should only clean a small area at a time and then dry it and move on. Never get wood floors too wet or allow them to dry naturally. Finished wood floors often can be cleaned just with water. However, the finish will eventually wear off, and you'll either have to re-finish the floors or start waxing them.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
Sunday, May 21, 2006
Wiping Rags Are Used for Pet Stain Removal From Carpets
Wiping Rags Are Used for Pet Stain Removal From Carpets
First, blot up any liquid by putting towels or absorbent rags over the spot and stepping on them. Start with gentle pressure and increase it up to putting your full weight down. Change to fresh rags or towels, until no more liquid comes up.
For fresh stains, apply a bacteria/enzyme digester from a pet store, following the directions - it's the only way to deal effectively with both the stain and the odor. Bacteria/enzyme digesters work slowly, so leave the solution on as long as the directions say. Urine has probably penetrated into the carpet and pad, so use enough solution to reach as far down as the stain. Apply the solution, put plastic over it, and step on the spot several times until the area is well saturated. Then, leave the plastic on the whole time the digester is working to make sure the spot doesn't dry out.
Old or dry stains are hard - sometimes even impossible - to remove, but try the bacteria/enzyme digester. If it's a popular accident site, the bacteria may produce enough ammonia in the course of breaking down the stains to create a super-alkaline situation that interferes with its own action. In this case, you may need to neutralize the spot after the digester has been working for about four hours. Mix a solution of one cup of vinegar to a gallon of warm water. Rinse the area with this solution and apply a fresh batch of bacteria/enzyme solution.
If the stain or odor remains, call a professional deodorizing specialist. A complete cure will probably involve cleaning the entire carpet by extraction and replacing the pad underneath, if not replacing the carpet.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
Wiping Rags Are Used for Pet Stain Removal From Carpets
First, blot up any liquid by putting towels or absorbent rags over the spot and stepping on them. Start with gentle pressure and increase it up to putting your full weight down. Change to fresh rags or towels, until no more liquid comes up.
For fresh stains, apply a bacteria/enzyme digester from a pet store, following the directions - it's the only way to deal effectively with both the stain and the odor. Bacteria/enzyme digesters work slowly, so leave the solution on as long as the directions say. Urine has probably penetrated into the carpet and pad, so use enough solution to reach as far down as the stain. Apply the solution, put plastic over it, and step on the spot several times until the area is well saturated. Then, leave the plastic on the whole time the digester is working to make sure the spot doesn't dry out.
Old or dry stains are hard - sometimes even impossible - to remove, but try the bacteria/enzyme digester. If it's a popular accident site, the bacteria may produce enough ammonia in the course of breaking down the stains to create a super-alkaline situation that interferes with its own action. In this case, you may need to neutralize the spot after the digester has been working for about four hours. Mix a solution of one cup of vinegar to a gallon of warm water. Rinse the area with this solution and apply a fresh batch of bacteria/enzyme solution.
If the stain or odor remains, call a professional deodorizing specialist. A complete cure will probably involve cleaning the entire carpet by extraction and replacing the pad underneath, if not replacing the carpet.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
Wiping Rags That Have Partial Color
Cotton Rags
Many suppliers provide cotton rags, wiping cloths, surgical and shop towels, and related janitorial supplies.
Rags - Shop Towels - Cotton Towels - Disposable Wiping Cloths
These are great sources for purchasing all quantities of rags, paper wipers and janitorial supplies.
Toll Free Telephone: 877-747-3854
"Cleanliness is indeed next to godliness." --Christopher Morley
